The Saints to Guadeloupe

With the rising sun off our port side, we pulled anchor and left St Martin this morning. All day we have been riding on the wind and surfing down the 3-6(daytime)4-10 foot(night time) waves past various saints--St Martin, Sint Maarten, St Eusatatius, St. Kitts. The boat lunges forward, then dips down to the left and lifts up to the right. Quite a dance step we are doing with extreme dips and lifts at uneven intervals while maintaining a tilt of 15 degrees. And so, as the sun set on Nevis tonight we are headed towards Montserrat.
In about an hour or so we will be in line with the famous volcano. The course one takes keeps you out of the ash zone so your sails don't get toasted by the ashes. I have heard that you will smell the volcano well before you see it with the right wind, and tonight the wind is coming from the southwest where the activity is on the island...more later, I need to check radar, the charts, and give the horizon a visual check right now.
All is safe and sound--no ships, same waves, same wind, and the smell of Montserrat is in the air. The north end of the island is visible and contains most of the existing population as well as the new airport. The lights on shore are thick and clear so there must not be too much smoke in the air. Clouds keep covering the full moon but I am hopeful that we will get a view of the volcano when we pass...
12:40 AM I see a huge bank of lights on shore and they appear to be yellow or orange...and I just read an excerpt from my book, An Embarrassment of Mangoes, about the daily color codes used for volcanic action. Volcanic alerts are given daily by the Montserrat Volcano Observatory, ranging from green(quiet), yellow, orange(eruption possible within 24 hours), to red(eruption may begin without further warning or is in progress). I wonder what the alert was for today? Boats are advised to stay 10 miles clear, and our course is set for 12 miles. I'm going with the thought that those were indeed YELLOW lights.
1:20 AM The night sky has high wispy clouds until you look at the bottom half of the island. From the horizon up there is a large billowing cloud rolling and growing wider. Dave woke up and watched it dissipate with me. Our winds are now kicking up to 27-30 with gusts of 33. He has the main up and we are bucking a current, making only 3.8-4 knots. As time moves forward the lights on the island get dimmer, the cloud must be moving forward as well.
2 AM We are at 16 degrees 41" N, 62 degrees 26 W and I can see very little of anything. The moon has been buried into the cloud coverage, the island has dimmed to almost nothing, but the winds have picked up to 35-37 and we are reefing the sails and holding on. Yeeha!
4:40 AM O.K. Dave got drenched at least 8 times, me just 3 times. Squally winds caught us and have been swish swashing us like a washing machine for almost 3 hours. It has calmed down to 3-8 foot swells, a few seconds apart, and the wind has slowed down. We can finally get a look again at the volcano, Dave says, in about an hour when the sun rises. I'm thinking the heck with that I want some sleep without the bounce effect that lifts me off the cushion every 3-6 seconds.
Hope you all got a great night sleep, we will be catching some quality winks when we drop anchor around noon today in Guadeloupe.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

May in the Tropics

See Pictures on other link

Here the flowers are blooming, the rain is falling, the sun is shining, and the humidity is building to match the temperatures of 85-90--normal conditions in this part of the world. Yet unlike home in Oregon, things are winding down rather than up. This is the end of the season, when the businesses and shop clear stock and prepare for a slow summer. Dave took his boat repair lists and shopped like it was Christmas; the boat is one lucky lady and we are a few thousand dollars poorer. The to-do list is now 3 pages long. No, Dave is not ready to go to work…it is mostly for his return in November.
So what’s been happening since the last up-date?
We were lucky enough to meet up with Shirley and John from Solstice in St. John, USVI and spent some time getting jazzed up to follow their path and cruise in Europe in a few years. We had not seen them since 2007 in Mexico. After that we waited in St. Thomas, USVI to rendezvous
With Joan and Ted on Panchita. We had not seen them in 17 months. They arrived with Joan’s brother Craig and his wife Mary. Both visits were too short yet our paths will cross again.
What great timing—it was Carnival in St. Thomas and we made it to two of the parades. The first was the Children’s Parade with the dancers, twirlers, marching bands, and trucks loaded with super sized speakers preceding each group. We are talking 14-20 2 feet by 4 feet and bigger! The next day was the Adult Parade which started at 11 and ended at 5 PM. People parked and camped out on the parade route, bringing their grills and chairs. Some backed their truck beds up to the path and had coolers of beer and soft drinks to sell with food hot off their grills…no permits needed.
We took pictures of the participants who came in all sizes, shapes, and ages. The colorful costumes reminded us of exotic birds and the brilliant colors used in the Caribbean were everywhere. The elaborate head gear and rolling skirts were the leaders in most case announcing the arrival of groups or in some case following…perhaps they were returning from the “refreshment trucks” (that followed each group)loaded with ice, juice, booze, wine and water. Most participants were well infused with their favorite drink by the first ¼ mile as they had been waiting to start for hours in some cases. One refreshment truck was decorated as a Tiki Bar—how appropriate.
Steel drum bands performed being towed by one single truck pulling 3-4 trailers of double decked musicians—OSHA would have had a fit! Bands from other islands (that have cut CD’s) performed on truck beds and local fan club members dressed up in costumes followed the bands while dancing to the music and “refreshing” themselves. The Zulu tribe is always a crowd favorite and fierce warriors they were. Dave’s favorite is the stilt people who had to keep moving in order to not fall. It was a great day and Dave saw it all.
At 9 PM the firework show started and we were moved by the elaborate display. Some of the rockets sent our showers of light that we had never seen elsewhere. A local, named Karen, had given us special glasses that broke the lights into prisms of colors and that enhanced our experience 10 fold. Following the light show was a band festival of Calypso music that went until early in the morning. The night before was the Battle of the Contemporary Bands that went until 3 AM, and the day before that was the 4 AM to 9 ish Jump Up Music Parade of thousands grooving and singing down the waterfront—that one we missed.
With Carnival over, it was time to make our goodbyes and head out to sea. So we bit the chain, raised the anchor and traveled 105 miles to St. Martin, the French side of the island. And a miracle occurred…nothing broke or failed, a first in two years.
Today we ate French pastries, last night Happy Hour at the Sint Maarten Yacht Club, dinner on the waterfront (a four course French dinner with a Banana Rum liqueur after dessert), and tonight we are raiding the freezer to balance the food budget. A weather event arrived at 5 PM and the dark clouds gave the boat a nice bath just as Happy Hour was starting in the lagoon. So instead of socializing we are hunkered down listening to Time Life Legend Ultimate Rock Collection of 300 songs and just limin’ the evening away. Life her is a blend of French and Dutch, depending on the side of the island you are on at the time.
So where are we headed next?
We might end up stopping in Antigua, Guadeloupe, The Saints, and Martinique before landing in Grenada. We will be by passing many islands that we plan to catch on the way back up next January. Ultimately though, we will end the season in Trinidad with a haul out date of June 10th and plane reservations for June 15th back to the states. We are looking forward to seeing friends, family and solid land this summer and fall.
Hope to see you all!
Until later our best thoughts and prayers to all of you out there.

April winds bring bread, muffins, and chocolate cake

April 27, we are now into our third day of a tropical front/trough that has kept us pinned in Francis Bay on St John, US Virgin Islands. We have read 5 books, and are now baking our way through the day. In the Northwest when we had stormy and rainy weather, we would hunker down below and make bread, cinnamon rolls, and cookies...some habits are hard to break. As the bread cooks we are icing down rum instead of drinking hot Spanish coffees...some habits need to adapt to the surroundings. The temperature here has stayed in the 80's, the gusts have been up to 30knts off and on night and day.

Since writing our last blog update we returned to St. Thomas to mail some forgotten items, bought fresh food, and restock our rum cabinet. We left there and went to Christmas Cove, where we met Ann and John Taylor on Livin the Dream. Over dinner they told us about 5 beautiful beaches within dinghy distance, the fabulous snorkeling, and the PRIME RIB NIGHT at the campground off Francis Bay on Friday nights. So we made plans to meet up later in the week for the great company, the beaches, the snorkeling, and the HUGE PIECE OF BEEF! As we ate, Dave stopped chewing when he ran into something solid and hard in his mouth--and discovered a cap on a tooth had fallen off. The next morning at 8 AM on the Coconut Telegraph, a radio net that goes from The Bahamas to Trinidad, Dave put out a request for a dentist nearby. Two people came back with names and numbers.
A quick phone call and Dave had an appointment with a clinic for 11 AM that same day. We sailed over to St John, found the clinic, and he had his tooth glued on by 11:10 AM, the cost ZERO DOLLARS! Needless to say we can highly recommend St. Johns Dental Clinic by the grocery store.
By sailing around the corner we were now in sight of the 5 beautiful beaches and we took our pick of places to tie up. Ann and John were right. We dove off the back of the boat and we were in a reserved for snorkeling. The first thing we saw was a turtle, followed by an abundance of coral, fish, sponges, and other sea creatures. Our new underwater camera came in handy as we learned how to take pictures that are worth keeping. Once we get internet again we will post some of the latest pictures. Five days in a row we snorkeled for 1-2 hours, and were lazy bums the rest of the day.
Before we realized it, it was Friday night and we headed off to PRIME RIB NIGHT. By climbing 99 stairs we were above the bay and had a front row seat for sunset. It's a bring your own drinks kind of place so we brought our box wine and toasted the sunset before getting in line for our 1 1/2 pound serving of beef, baked potato, beans, salad, and trimmings. After a great dinner we went to the craft store where glass artists show off their latest creations. They have a community here where they invite artists from other places to come and live, work, and sell their wares using recycled glass from the island. This night a very talented man and his wife from Vermont were working and made a beautiful intricate serving bowl. He was excellent in his teaching and explaining his process as he worked for almost two hours.
Saturday was another snorkeling day, and great weather. Sunday came and the weather began to change. The weather forecast told us that we should stay in this protected area and so we did. Which brings us up to date and why we are going to gain 10 pounds eating bread, muffins, and chocolate cake. The snorkeling is not so good on these wind blown days with surface chop white caps putting water into your snorkeling tube. So here we sit, reading, baking, sewing, reading some more, and eating our way through the days... no complaints from the captain or first mate.
Our plans are to go to the British Virgin islands of Norman and Virgin Gorda this weekend and then head back to St. Thomas to meet up with Panchita, (who we haven't seen in over a year) and then back to St. Johns to meet up with Solstice who we met back in 2007(they are returning from Europe). And with luck we will make another PRIME RIB NIGHT in Francis Bay.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

St. Thomas and beyond

Now that the gang (Kelsey, Kiele, Russell, and Mel) was all aboard again we took off to repeat some of the earlier spots, and see some new territory. We only had 5 days...so we went around to the North side of St. Thomas and found Magens Bay and Beach...the water toys came out and we soak in the rays, salt and slurped down the rums. The next morning we walked the beach and took gorgeous photos. Back to the boat and across to Jost Van Dyke. There Kiele met Foxy and his son while the rest of us met the bartender. As the sun set we ate dinner on the boat and one tired girl went to bed while the others put on their dancing shoes and went to shore for some more dancing and fun. Oma and Opa heard the music on board--just the right amount of volume for us. The next morning we were off for Culebra and a storm followed us in. Once in Culebra we checked back into the states, and had a Dinghy Dock beer hour. Dinner was once more on the boat and we turned on the music--thanks to Russell boat's gift of an Ipod player with great speakers. Kiele was not feeling good--her ears have been on and off again infected--so we left Culebra and went to Fajardo and the clinic. There was presure behind her ear drums and drops were ordered. A final dinner out for fish and fun was in order. After that we returned to the boat and everyone dug around for clothes, shoes, chargers, gifts, etc. and packed bags fuller than ever before. Tuesday arrived and we took everyone off to the airport. We made our goodbyes and headed off to Home Depot for the final supply run of the season. Knowing we are headed back to the land of hot and humid we bought a small air conditioner for our time in Trinidad, bought supplies we would have bought back in the states and lugged down here next fall, and took long showers at the marina. Life is good, we are still loving our lifestyle, and the people we meet are so much fun and full of the adventurous spirit that make cruisers cruisers.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Kelsey's Visit

March 27th we picked up Kelsey, Kiele, and Russell(who has been a friend when ever we have needed help moving, packing, or anything else). March 28 we drove around Old San Juan, saw the fort, the city, and the walled sea front that greeted the pirates and the invading forces over the past 400 years. What a beautiful place it is. We will attached pictures when we get internet again.
We set the sails and crossed over from Puerto Rico to Culebra on the northwest side to see the luminescence--there were a dozen or more that night over a 15 minute period.
The following day we bit the bullet and took off for Jost Van Dyke. Kiele did great, she is use to no balance as she tries to stand and walk before her first birthday. Kelsey and Russell did fine considering it was rough and rolly. It was our 37th wedding anniversary and as we dropped anchor, Helen fed the fish 3 days worth of food. Needless to say, Dave, Kiele, Kelsey, and Russell went to the world famous Foxy's and had a grand night celebrating while Helen huddled under her sheet and had a few belts of gatorade once again. The next day Helen went to shore looking for yogurt, ginger ale and a glimpse of Foxy. After that we went to Sandy Bay, a gorgeous beach with great shells, wonderful beach sand, and picturesque water lapping its shore in every shade of green imaginable. From there the boat and crew headed east to Tortola and we ran into Zoo Keeper, Jenny and Malcolm from Australia. A few beers later we were caught up and exchanging info on where to go next. We had heard about the bubbly pool on the east side of the island and we took off for it. Finding a small niche, designed for one boat we dropped anchor and launched the dinghy. A short walk past Foxy's Tabu and the poisonous trees, we were the third group waiting for a turn in the jauccuzi like natural pool. It was worth the wait and twice that day we found ourselves enjoying the waters around this bay. The next morning came and went, and we just chilled at this anchorage for another night. Another sunrise, another short jaunt, another great little beach and then we anchored at Soper's Hole. There we found a restaurant, ate bar food, and left them $100.00 richer and us looking for grocery stores. Soper's Hole also had a Pusser Rum Bar, which we enjoyed, and some shops for souvenirs, and a grocery store for YOGURT, finally. Needing to be in St Thomas, we left Soper's, over-nighted at Round Bay on the east side of St. John's, and found a short reef to swim on. April 5th we went to Cruz Bay on St. John and checked back into the US. There we found some shops, found a grocery store, and better food for a better price. Before sunset we crossed over to St. Thomas and stayed at Christmas Cove on a buoy--which we now remember is NOT a quiet night for the crew--that whopped and wacked the side of the boat all through the night! April 6th we headed west to Brewer's Bay and dropped anchor off the runway of the airport--preparing to pick up Melissa Bennett from Washington,DC (WHO HAD DECIDED ON A LATE NIGHT WHIM TO JOIN US AS WELL--we can be pretty persuasive). Before sunset we realized Limburgh Bay would be better so we moved. A 10 minute walk and we were at the airport for Mel. She packed light and she survived a dinghy ride through the night surf from the beach to our boat.
An here we are, all caught up. Oma and Opa are babysitting while Kelsey, Mel, and Russell enjoy a bit of fun in St. Thomas while Dave waits for the phone call to pick them up. We can hear the music from the boat and hope they have become enough of a cruiser to realize midnight is 9 and the wee hours are from 10 to 11 PM. It is now 10:37 and Dave has been yawning since they left...

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

When was the last update?

So, we may have appeared to have dropped off the grid for awhile. Not having internet to tell us when we last updated the blog, we are a bit sketchy on the last time we checked in---a common life hazard in the cruising world. We do know it is April, and that it is pass April 10 as our daughter and granddaughter arrived that day and they have taken over the front room, while a friend of the family has taken over the back room and we have been jaunting around for days and some nights with them...and we know it is not TAX DAY, because we are still waiting for info to give to our accountant to complete her work. So happy almost middle of April to you all!!!!
So, where have we been?
Did we tell you we left Ponce and went to Isla el Caja de Muertos and finally made it back into the water? I think we did but we both fell sick the next three days and stayed in a comatose state while staring at a beautiful beach, watching the ripples of the wind over emerald green and aquamarine blue water,and chugging away on gatorade.
Gathering strength we took a dinghy ride around the other side of the island and found a snorkeling site. While there we met a local dive boat couple and had a great visit with Lynn and David from Caribbean Image Tours. They work out of Ponce and give their customers great trips on and in the water. From there we went to Salinas, a sleepy little anchorage where time has stopped for many cruisers. Our first day there we met Marianne from Tradewinds sail and canvas who clued us into all the great spots for wifi, food, hardware, and fresh bread. It was a comfortable and cosy town. We should know, we stayed almost a week so we could be part of the Thursday night burgers at Drake's and Friday night BBQ at the marina. We didn't make it into the water but we did sew, and snapped, and tied things closed as we baby proofed the boat for the arrival of our first grandchild on board. In the evenings we met cruisers who have spent years in this part of the Caribbean and picked their memories on experiences and places for work on the boat as well as places to "lime" when work is not a priority--Granada is a favorite stop they all agreed.
Isla Santiago was a overnight stop, dropping anchor just before sunset. This island is a natural habitat for research monkeys, hundreds or thousands we aren't sure. But at sunset a number of monkeys were swimming, jumping from trees into the water, or just running up and down bent palm trees before night stopped their monkeying around antics.
We then sailed to Culebra and spent a few days dinghy around the island and anchoring off the beautiful beaches. We found a few nice bars, a great sandwich shop for Cubano sandwhiches, and walked ourselves back into shape. We met Beth and Art Bauer on Adagio and ate at a restaurant where you order at the kitchen door, bring your own liquid refreshment, wait for your name to be called so you can return to the kitchen and get your dinner. Food was great and the company superb!
The next morning we sailed to Fajardo, tied to a dock, and washed clothes.
Now ready we rented a car, shopped for provisions to feed 5 people for 16 days, and ran down parts to fix the boat, of course. Then we unpacked the car, shoved every corner of the boat with stuff we didn't need to make room for the stuff we did need to be handy and available. I should have drawn a map or listed all the NEW places we discovered for stuff so when we regroup and have a need for something we might find it again in less than 3 days of saying, "So where else might it have fitted and ended up?" Perhaps when we finally sell the boat we will be able to find all those missing parts we currently know as "they're on the boat somewhere, aren't they?"...

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

First Carnival in Puerto Rico

Check out our Carnival pictures in our picture folder
Tomorrow should be Thursday and we will be leaving the world of internet, roads and stores for an island that has flora, fauna, and beaches with a few humans.
We have not submerged our bodies in salt water since a glorious day in December down in Panama and the thought of floating on a tube or noodle is so delicious to us right now!
We arrived in Puerto Rico on Sunday, two days before the end of Carnival in Ponce, Puerto Rico. Carnival has been a 150+ year tradition and we were able to view only one of the events--the burial of the Sardines. This was a fun and audience participation parade for the night before the start of Lent. It started with bands, baton twirlers, dancers, and along the side lines a large group (50+) of masked and costumed marauders swinging paper mache' "bladders" at the young and attractive rumps of young women.
Some say the burial of the Sardines is symbolic for the number of fish that will be eaten during Lent, others say it is letting go of the old and negative, and welcoming the new and repentant. We copied some past pictures that capture the participants and flare of the night. I will try to down load them to the blog site.
March 27 Kelsey, Kiwi, and a friend arrive to spend time with us. We will explore Puerto Rico and with luck also some of the Virgin Islands. Grandma is super excited, but mom is more excited to see her daughter. Dad is just plain excited!
So we will be out of contact for awhile, sunning, reading, and working on child proofing a boat that has never been home to a baby! Yikes, child proofing at our age is a challenge!

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com