Tucked Away in St. Bart's

While tucked safely away from the steep waves and high winds on the seas, we are enjoying daytime adventures and boat reunions here in St Barth's.
During the days we have walked ALL the beaches, hiked the mountainous path between two towns, eaten conch and mahi mahi at a beachtown bistro, eaten hamburgers at Le Select (alias Cheeseburgers in Paradise), eaten at a waterfront resort restaurant while surfers caught some amazing curls, collected small shells on Shell Beach, taken 4 wheelers and driven all the roads on this small island-- with stops at bars for liquid re-hydration, snorkeled with a turtle and soaked in the sea, read 7 more books, and watched for 10 days a life size pair of Ken and Barbie doll tourists turn their bodies from pale white to a full 360 degree tan. While we saw and experienced this great island they spent their day always standing on the end of the beach for 6-8 hours getting a full body tan. It was incredible how long they stood facing the water and posing so sun touched every part of their bodies. We have never seen such dedication and waste of time all in the same action. Really people, get a life and buy a tanning bed if it is that important to be all around tan! You paid to come here and missed the daytime life here on St Bart's.

Now, on to the night time social life...We arrived with a buddy boat, Windfall (owned by a Swedish couple that we had met in Antigua), and then hosted a reunion on our boat with Mystic Moon who had arrived a few hours after us. What fun to share new friends with old sailing buddies! The following night we were Mystic Moon's guest for wahoo, lobster bisque...Cathy outdid herself once again! I think Don Julio was involved with wine, tequila,and rum as well. Our next celebration was on Windfall. Lena treated us to a great dinner and after dinner Per performed on an acoustic cello, his first after a four month break--he has been playing since the age of 10. With the help of an amplifier, his music filled the anchorage and gave the stars a proper compliment. The pieces were moving but the look on Per's face was the best gift. The next boat event was an afternoon/evening of exchanging info. Mystic Moon told Windfall and us about ports and things north of here, and then we all shared with MM things to do south of here. After the exchange we had popcorn and a movie on Mystic Moon, followed by cake and red wine. The movie was August Rush, what a great film that was to watch! Having come full circle we had a parting ways dinner on our boat--Jammin' Pizza night. Goodbye are never easy, but we are sure we will catch up with Mystic Moon in late April, and Per and Lena we may meet in Sweden or on the East coast before that.
We were anchored in a spot that holds 20 or so boats, so we were surprise when we found ourselves being hailed by another boating couple we know. John and Gilly, from Destiny and the BajaHaHa 2007, were here visiting on Petite Profligate. They dropped anchor, checked out their neighbors and when they saw who their neighbor was, they hollered up a big "Hello." We have not seen them since 2008 when we all were still in Mexico. So, just last night we spent the evening with them and their friend Susan, catching up and swapping stories that helped to make us who we are. This afternoon when we said goodbye to John, Gilly, and Susan I decided we cruisers really need to coin the proper parting term, and it is not "Goodbye." Because, chances are very good that we will run into each other again, if not in this sea perhaps another...So the proper parting term may be "Until our rudders again brush the same waters, here is a hug to hold close to your hearts." That would pretty much sum it all up don't you think?
Well, we will be off to St Martin, maybe tomorrow or maybe we will stay out here on this little island beside St Bart's for a few more days and see who the wind may blow in that we know...it's certainly is a cruiser's life for now.

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Antigua Feb 14- March 1st

Antigua is the first island we have seen all 360 degrees around. We started our circle in English Harbour and found it to be full of boats and room for no more. Just around the corner we found Falmouth Harbour where we dropped anchor. Together with Ted and Joan, from Panchita, we checked out Lord Nelson's Boatyard where one can check in to the country. Aged mortar held rocks in place and combined with weathered bricks and timbers to make a solid wall on our left side, while to our right the well maintained trees offered us shade and a perch for song birds. The overall effect was as clear as a painted picture of days long past but not forgotten. Many of the working buildings of the boatyard have been maintained and currently house modern day services to the yachting community. We found the sail loft to be very helpful in supplying us some needed material to repair our sail cover, and the assortment of restaurants were very tempting. However, after so many days of boat time and few opportunities to exercise, we decided to walk further and burn calories before adding new one to our bodies.

We walked away from the Nelson Boatyard and out into the business area of Falmouth. At the taxi stand we talked with some locals who suggested we walk up the back street to the Caribbean Taste Native Restaurant where we had a very tasty Valentine's Day lunch--no beer available but you can buy it down on the main street and bring it up with you...such accommodating people. Our next stop was the shops along the main drag. We walked into a photography shop and drooled over some of the best photos we have seen that truly invoke the emotional response we get when looking out to the sea. Over the next few days we experienced the Mad Mongoose for Happy Hour and internet, Bailey's store for anything we needed, watched the awards for the Hare and Tortoise Swim Events, ate at Life--great pita sandwiches, saw a Tott Club round of rum event, and visited with other boaters like Anna and Hakan, from the Swedish boat Unicorn, who had helped us see and experience so much of Martinique. Weather was going to keep us bound to the island for at lest a week which prompted us to pull anchor and move on to the next anchorage.

Heading to the west we cruised past Carlisle Bay, between two reefs, around Johnson Point, pass Morris Bay, passed Jolly Harbour, and set the anchor down in the back of Five Islands Harbour in 10-12 feet of water. Here we had the bay all to ourselves, with Panchita, and our own private beach to comb. There is a small island near the back and the trees are full of at least three different kinds of nesting birds. During the daytrip we noticed a gentle blend of cacti with palm trees-dry and lush existing together. What a calm piece of water, and a great night of sleep we had there after our final farewell dinner with Panchita.
The next day we were off and headed north and east. We passed by Deep Bay, St John's (which we intended to do by land later), Dickenson's Bay, ducked in to Parham Bay and decided we wanted more rustic scenery and space, and landed out at Great Bird Island. Here we found a small beach, paths to walk, rock islands to explorer, and photographic opportunities along with rock and roll music coming from a partying catamaran. There were two families teaching their kids what a sailing vacation can be. One dad took five kids on an adventure and said, "Water is short, you get one gulp, and only one gulp so save it for when you are hallucinating and about to past out. Now pile into the dinghy and paddle to Hell's Gate where we will search for treasures beyond your imagination." They returned two hours later and the dads got a break. The moms put on music and led the mighty troops into dancing on the deck, bouncing on the trampoline, kids wrapping arms and legs around the mast, over the boom, playing hide and seek in the mainsail cover, and partying like moneys in a zoo--hopping, hollering, and having the time of their lives while making strong memories that will last past this decade. We couldn't help smiling to ourselves and thinking how lucky those kids are to have parents who got what a family vacation should be about. Abandonment of routine and plenty of quality time laughing and playing with parents who haven' forgotten they were kids once upon a time.

We awoke the next morning and the cat had moved on and so did we. We cut around the corner and carefully weaved our way into Nonsuch Bay. We chose the southern entrance, which is narrow, but safer than taking the northern entrance. We found the bay to be somewhat crowded but again there was a great small beach and awesome scenery to enjoy. Kite surfers dominated the beach area and found great gusts to carry them into the surf and just watching them made us contemplate the possibility that 60+ might not be too old to try out this sport. The stars were bright that night and we enjoyed the calm and quiet anchorage to the fullest. In no hurry to move, we ate a lazy breakfast and looked out to where the wind surfers had set their courses the day before. Passing by us were a number of large sailing vessels with fully set sails and teams of crew working the sheets. The 2012 RORC 600 had started. What gorgeous rigs and vessels they have, and what great winds to start this race! Then we noticed a smaller vessel floundering on the reef. A boat had attempted to leave the bay using the northern entry and was in trouble. Three dinghies went to assist but were unable to pull the vessel free, a rescue boat appeared, and also failed to break it free of the coral. Finally a sport fishing vessel arrived and after much effort pulled it off and towed it to Jolly Harbour. Watching a vessel rocking and swaying on a reef is such a mood killer. We all know it can happen to any of us, we all try to deny that it could be us out there on another day, but in reality we all know it can happen to the best of sailors including ourselves. We decided to stay another day where we were and complete some work. In the afternoon we jumped into the water to sooth our souls and limbs after a hard day of working on boat projects.

The next day found us using the southern path to exit the anchorage, and off we went around Friars Head, Half Moon Bay, Willoughby Bay with its rocky entrance, Mamora Bay and its lovely resort, Indian Creek (took pictures of Eric Clapton's mansion), past English and Falmouth Harbours, and we set the anchor down outside Jolly Harbour. The weather report was still predicting high winds but we found this empty beach just inside the start of the channel and on the left where one could anchor. Everyone else had anchored on the right and we wanted some alone time. About 40 minutes later we had six other boats with us. You know that lemming effect--we were the first lemming. A short dinghy ride delivered us to Jolly Harbour, a great grocery store, a pharmacy to replenish our stock of sea sick pills called Sturgeron, and a Budget Marine for parts to complete other boat projects yet to be tackled. What a slice of waterfront paradise that port is for boaters who want to anchor their boat off their front porch. We had a roll and rock night (the kind where pill bottle roll off the counter and wine bottles rock over) and the next morning awoke to breakers breaking about 150 yards ahead of us, a flat calm sea it was not! Carefully we lifted the anchor, gunned the boat into reverse, and made our way back to Falmouth and calmer rolling waters.

Now back to where we started our circumnavigating in Falmouth Harbour, we started to say our "goodbyes" and set plans for our next passage. Our goodbyes are typically last meals and weather checks. A quick trip to Mad Mongoose for great hamburgers and internet, a trip to the ATM, and another internet stop down at Seabreeze on the Antigua Yacht Club end of town. While doing the weather check we started a conversation with a Canadian couple who was headed off the next day on the sailing vessel Tenacious. It is equipped for wheel chair passengers to take part in sailing tasks and learn to love the sea. There appears to be four crow's nests, with lifts, so that they can even take that duty to heart. The girlfriend was looking forward to swabbing the deck, and Russell was just plain psyched to be on the seas. He has traveled many wheel miles around the world but never been put to sea. Another sailor joined in by sharing his favorite weather sites and told us about a pod of whales he encountered off Dominica. Then he pulled up the video he took. It showed the whale about 5 feet from him and that's when he made the wise decision to leave the water to the massive beast. Sperm whales do not mind a bite of meat in their diet.

We were now prepared to sail to St Bart's and buddy boat with Lena and Per from Windfall (another Swedish couple who are heading to Florida). However, they needed to go to St John's and pick up mail. So we all hopped a local bus to St John's. We always try to take at least one local bus trip and get some road time seeing the island from land, speaking with the working class locals, and walking the back street to find the hole in the wall local food eateries (who prepare grandma's favorite recipes with grandma size portions). We asked in the vegetable market for a recommendation and we were told, "Walk up to the big tree, and behind that tree is BB's, you'll eat very good local food, and tell her Glenda sent you." So we walked and found the tree, and it was where two roads met. We didn't see BB's so we asked around and found it. Glenda was right, great goat curry served with salad, scalloped potatoes, rice and beans, and more food than we could eat for 15 EC= $5.00. Now that we were full of great food we went shopping for our fresh foods and then caught a bus. Buying some greens and fruit is always a thrill as we learn about new to us vegetables and fruits. Soursops are in season and a woman on the bus told me how to pick out the best one--make sure they are soft to the touch, very pointy and prickly, not rounded and flatten out. Riding the bus back to Falmouth, I sat with a young girl who was about to start her final school exams. She will need to work for about two years before she can go on to college. There she plans to study politics and become a politician. You find most people have goals and a work ethic who ride the buses, and know it takes hard work to get where they want to be in the future. I hope her plans come true, that she finds her way to the university, and works her way into the hearts of the voters to make things better for her island.

Antigua is a beautiful island with so many easy-to-anchor harbors, friendly people, convenient services and parts for boaters, affordable restaurants, warm water, a large number of snorkeling locales, and all this is doable in a week or less--but two weeks is better. Our only regret is that with the rolling seas and high winds the clarity of the water was less than 6-10 feet so we didn't get to experience the visual gifts of the underwater reefs and see the water life up close and personal.

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Left Martinique

Feb. 13, 2012
With daylight rising and clouds crossing the tip of Mt Pelee, we pulled up the anchor and left the exciting island of Martinique behind us. This has become one of our favorite spots. Clear warm water, sand beaches, good snorkeling, fun cruising friends, great food, unlimited amount of imported quality (yet cheap) French red wine, cheese, salami,rum, and baguettes are some of the reasons we were content to stay here. Other reasons were the shear beauty of nature, mountainous terrain mixed with lush tropical foliage, a green flash at sunset (not once but 6 times), the ambiance of the French culture, great bus system, and the warmth of the sun with cool night breezes kept us comfortable. It truly felt like we were on vacation the whole time.
We had stopped here last year but only to fix our radio. We arrived and left with no great insight into the gifts this island had to offer. This year when we arrived I realized it might be a great place to celebrate turning 61, and it was. We arrived on a stormy day and sat out the first two days of rain downpours before digging out our foulies. On day 3 with rain jackets and umbrellas under our arms, we went in search of red wine and cheese.
The selections were so numerous we were overwhelmed and unsure how to narrow down our choices. So we took a practical approach. Buy no bottle over 4 Euros, and have a wine tasting party on our boat. We invited 4 couples to bring a bottle and we sampled 7 different wines. What a great fun night that was for all of us! Celebration, Unicorn, Panchita, and Jammin swapped bottles, stories, recipes, and advice while testing the French waters of wines. The next day we went to the stores and bought numerous bottles of our favorites from the night before. Then we tested the cheeses. I found a camembert that was sweet, and Dave found one that had a hint of blue cheese notes it it. My favorite Boursin, a creamy garlic and herb cheese, was my first purchase with a baguette. Dave bought chocolate filled rolls and 6 bottles of red wine.
When the weather improved we went for hikes and shopped. Part of the fun was trying to recall my 40+ year old lessons in the French language--its amazing what the brain can retrieve out of those dusty archives. It also helped that we have 3 French handbooks and two dictionaries. When something looked good in the meat market we looked it up, one day we avoided buying 5 pounds of cow lung that was going for a great price! We hopped buses and went to a shopping center, a great way to see the road system and town out of walking distance...and to find another grocery store for more cheese, wine and pastries.
One day we were invited to walk around the Botanical Garden. The brochure for the garden showed flat walk ways and a Tom Sawyer style catwalk over the tree tops. So we hopped on a bus with our two friends, from Unicorn, and our water bottle filled. When we got to the garden entranced we walked pass it and followed a hiking path that took us up on a ridge and around the garden. Three hours later we completed the hiking loop, washed the mud off our feet, and ate our lunch. The pictures we took were beautiful(when we get internet we will post them). This hike was a great test of how in/out of shape our leg muscles are.
Amazingly we could still walk and shop the next day. The shoe shops here are amazingly plentiful, cheap, and so stylish. There were at least 2-3 shoe stores on every block. I found a pair of shoes and a dress, total cost 28 Euros.
We also found time for work. We finished off many sewing projects, repaired the water maker, and accomplished other boat projects in calm and sunny conditions. And of course we read 12 more books. We left 5 years ago with 300 books and it is our goal to finish all of them before next year.
This morning we are off for a sail by to Dominica, Guadeloupe, The Saintes, and Monserrat and sometime on Tuesday we will arrive at Antigua where English is spoken, and new bays await our discovery.

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St lucia II

January 16, 2012 St Lucia

Weather windows have kept us sitting in St. Lucia but we have not suffered from boredom. Since arriving we have fixed parts of the boat, read 7 books, worked on projects, organized a 16 boat dinghy raft up night, participated in happy hours, women luncheons, toured the island, and have entertained and been entertained on other boats.

One of our goals when visiting a new island is to find THE LOCAL HANGOUT! Here we accomplished that in the first week. Last week we found a great hole in the wall for lunch and local food. Right behind the coffee house named Rituals is a L shape lunch counter place. They serve your choice of 6-8 home cooked entrees, inspired by local cuisine, which come with 4 side dishes—for $5.00. Root vegetables and green bananas are quite versatile. Walking between tourists’ sites help us to work off the starches.

Saturday we hired a taxi for the island tour. Having seen the twin volcanic columns, known as the Pitons, from the ocean we wanted a back side view of these magnificent towers like giants. We left at 9, hit the local market in Castries, walked through all the vegetable/fruit stands and a few of the touristy t-shirt stalls. We drove by the central square and catholic church and then it was up the hill to the Government mansion and the college. What a clear view of the bay, the cruise ships, and the ocean. Down the hills we bobbed and weaved following the curvy roads and returned to sea level. Along the way we saw small towns clustered near the water and the French plantation influence in the waterfront housing designs in Soufries —homes there were designed to be taken down and carried to a new location as the occupants were often sold off to a new owner, the middle class homes were higher up the hillside, and some of the homes for the upper status group we saw along the vista viewpoints or tucked into the valleys. Yards are well maintained, cultural influences (French, Indian, British) are reflected in architectural details, and most of the homes have beautiful views. We followed the western road through a few more towns and settled on a local restaurant for lunch. Creole cooking is big on this island and fish is readily available. It still seems “sinful” to have a beer for lunch—but then I remember I am retired, and the guilt goes away with the first cold gulp.

After lunch we went to the Diamond Botanical Garden at the base of a waterfall. A local man “offered” to be our personal guide. He was very knowledgeable and gave us the deluxe tour with humor included for no extra charge. There were many gorgeous blooming plants and a few fruits were growing as well. Our favorites were a q-tip plant and a waxed rose. Having walked a bit we were ready to rest our feet. So off we went to La Soufriere Sulphur Springs for the mineral pool and mud bath, built by the French a few hundred years ago, located at the foot of an ash mound still steaming. The pool was 4 feet deep and oh so warm and soothing. The mud was black if you took it from the bottom or white if you bought it from the attendant—Dave went with the black mud.

From there we drove to a third waterfall and soaked our bodies once again.This time we had to walk a hand hewn path up and down and up again. It was tucked away from the public road and we were alone with the birds, and flowing water for about 15 minutes. Here the water was just air temp and not filled with minerals, just a touch of liquid healthiness being temporarily contained in concrete square blocks. Noticing the fading light from the sun, we pulled ourselves back into responsible thinking and returned to our cab driver. The ride home was quiet as we all collected our thoughts and experiences together in an attempt to command them to memory for retelling. When one gets so relaxed, the brain follows suit, and some days become more of a blur than a clear Kodak picture. This trip was one of those hazy, blurry days where the brain felt thoroughly massaged and relaxed. We returned home with no worries, and no energy.

Sunday night we went over to Pigeon Island and the fort. If you wait till 5 there is no park fee and the bar serves 2-4-1 drinks that knock your socks off—if we were wearing any. The seafood lasagna comes in a dish big enough for 1 ½ and they have octopus as an appetizer that we are going back for another night. We lucked out and it was a Jam session night. Local artist come together and play. The Caribbean jazz and blues combo was perfect accompaniment.

Tonight was the dinghy raft up which we started at 4, it rained at 4, so most everyone showed up at 4:30…but being the hosts we sat in the rain from 4 to 4:20 alone. Yet, down here it is no problem. We were dry 5 minutes after the rained stopped and having 15 other boats come out was a great show of cruiser support. It also helps that the weather has been so bad for over a week that most of us have spent way too many hours on our boat and needed the comradely of “new” others and the wealth of stories that get shared at such an event. P.S. Also a great way to off load finished books and exchange movies.

Day after tomorrow is another ladies luncheon. Last week I sat by a Brit named Amanda who had sailed from the Canaries or Azores for 1,500 miles with a broken off rudder. Five hundred miles out to sea and on her watch is when it broke. Being in radio contact with other boats she and her husband soon learned how to make a drogue from buoys, line, chain and a spare anchor. I also met a woman who makes jewelry, lives here for part of each year, and is a joy to converse with. Marsha is the organizer of the event and Fiona was the first participant. Eighteen ladies attended last week and more are sure to come this week. We get lunch, pool time, and the companionship of others who are figuratively speaking in the same boat that we are each day.

We are learning that this is another place that can suck you right into staying, but the winds are due to change by the end of the week and we feel the pull of the north on our sterns…so Thursday we will provision, and head north to ??? well, north is a good enough start J.

St Lucia

Sunday, January 8, 2012 St. Lucia

It is high noon, 85 degrees, and the World Arc race has just blown the starting horn. Boats from all over the world have gather here to start their around the world sailing adventure. Next stop is the San Blas Islands, then through the canal and out to sea heading west to the Marquises and Australia. High winds and seas are predicted for the next 4 days so they should have a rough but fast time to their destination.

We were not on the starting line, nor tempted to head out with them. Our water maker is out of commission, our auto pilot has a small problem, our macerator needs an impeller, and we have not seen enough of the Caribbean yet. Our boat is at anchor in front of The Sandals resort, there are 4 other resorts nearby, and wind surfer, parasaliors, and kayaks dart between us and the shore. Our friends on Panchita, Ted and Joan, are in the marina, and we are waiting for parts to be delivered. Dave is nursing a cold, and I am limin’ with free internet.

St Lucia is a mountainous island with many activities and a limited bus system. We are hoping to take a taxi tour with Ted and Joan on Wednesday to see the island and get a glimpse of what it offers. The anchor will stay down here for 3 weeks or so to allow us time to solve our problems, work on projects, and mingle with the locals and feel what life on St. Lucia is like. Life is neither dull nor boring these days.

Bequia

January 3, 2012 Bequia
We have been in Bequia for almost a week and keep finding reasons to stay. This is by far one of the friendliest places we have been. The people in town greet you, and you them, as you walk their streets. The shop keepers acknowledge you with big open smiles and ask how they can help you find what you need. No one rushes you, and no one hassles you to buy things. One does not feel new or like an intruder here. The streets are paved and the architecture is a blend of Europe, Scandinavia, and the Caribbean. Buildings are painted every color available and tall graceful palm trees shade each well kept property. There are many hotels and restaurants all along one strip of land, and two gorgeous beaches to walk upon and enjoy water sports. Many people come for a month at a time and rent houses on the slopes above Lower Beach and enjoy the 4-5 beaches the island offers. The favorite mode of transport is a thing called the Moke, made by Mini Cooper--Dave has to inspect each one. Restaurant food is reasonable to expensive, your choice, and we finally found some free internet sources. A tour of the whole island can be done in two+ hours. Every evening there is a breeze that carries the island smells out to the boat, and gently sways us through happy hours.

Night life does exist; there are bands on Friday and Saturday that play till 3 AM. American boats are outnumbered 10 to 1. We are surrounded by boats brought here from mostly Scandinavian countries, and some chartered by the French, we just melt together into a close fitting rotating mass of swirling objects as the wind moves us at her will. Tied to a mooring buoy, there is only 20 feet of individual space between boats. You could almost hop over dinghy by dinghy to each other. So friendly is a good way to be in harmony with the situation. Polite boat vendors vie for your business and daily there are loud arguments amongst them as to who is servicing which boat. But as fast as it starts, it stops and one wins the business with no involvement from others.

For Christmas the area next to the ferry landing was fully decorated, lit, and a stage was erected for the caroling contest. We missed that but heard it was loads of fun and entertaining watching the professional groups, followed by the impromptu groups, which were then followed by individuals who were either talented or just brave. We arrived a few days later but they were all still talking about that night.

New Year's Eve started with 6 large lobsters ($7.00 per pound) and dinner on our boat with Miclo III, (Ellen, Rob, and Lizzy). After dinner, champagne, and dessert we walked around town and found a local bar. There they were BBQing chicken, and selling cold beer. We sat with a local fisherman and learned much about local conditions, politics, government, wives, and life on the island. Time flew and before long it was 11:40. We headed back to our boat for a front row view of the firework display. It was spectacular! The rockets shot up, the explosive colors spread far and wide, rapid multitudes of irruptions ignited one after another or on top of each other. There was no pause, no empty unlit space in the midnight sky for fifteen minutes. Not being night owls we found ourselves waking up on New Year's Day around 11:30 A.M. and reading the day away. Dave and I both started and finished our own books that day. Since then it has been rough weather. A tropical wave from Africa is whipping over us; seas are 9-11 feet, winds 20-27, rain comes 7-8 times at night and 4-5 times during the day. Our plans to leave here have been delayed, more books have been pulled out, and projects are being considered.

Speaking of projects we learned a new one called CRAFT (Can't remember a f------ thing). CRAFT gets in the way of projects (like when you can't find the tools you need). WAWCOOOS is another new word. Coming up from Carriacou we coined it to fit the ‘waves and wind coming on over our sides’ that carried gallons of water into our salon and spare bedroom. Sneaker waves do exist. Well, our lives are simple and fairly boring for now as we sit with another set of books, our morning coffee, and contemplate what we will thaw for dinner tonight. Hope all is well, and, that you are all doing well as this year moves ahead.

Carriacou

December 27th Carriacou
We left Grenada, which people will tell you is a hard thing to do. Our first stop was an island named Carriacou. We dropped anchor in Tyrrel Bay, a workingman's port--it was rolly and so we didn't put the dinghy down--we could only appreciate what was in our view. So the next morning we moved to Hillsborough which proved to be a much rollier anchorage. While I guided the motor down, Dave did the death defying feat of lowering the dinghy in 25 knots of wind and then his encore was using one hand to drop the motor on the dinghy's stern (timing it to the right rise and fall of the waves) and holding the dinghy with his other hand to the boat which was being propelled forward by current and 3 foot seas. Why would he risk life and limb? We needed to go to shore and check out of the country.

Once on shore we were told to come back in 75 minutes as the officials were headed to lunch. So, off we went walking the length of the town and finding a booming lunch business called Jerked. For $12.00 US we had 3 drinks and two complete meals of jerked pork and curried beef. Next stop was Patty's Deli for bread and sandwich meats. She sold her last baguette as we stood there so we bought bagels and great Italian ham sliced paper thin. Now it was time to check out. The office area held 3 people comfortably and there were 7 of us and 6 backpacks already in there and more trying to squeeze in. Patience paid off and all were taken in the order of arrival. By the time our turn came, they were very appreciative that we knew what we were doing, that we had 3 copies of the paperwork ready, and that we were not rude or confused. They stamped the papers and waved us on to the next check out point. The people and town itself was a delight and we felt very comfortable there. But, our plan was to go to Bequia for New Year's and so off we went at 5 AM with the rising sun and the setting stars as our companions.